Nanjing is a good place to see a bit of Chinese history and culture away from the tourist route; the city is littered with cultural relics, museums and nice scenery and is small enough to get around in a short period of time. For those living or staying in Shanghai, Nanjing makes a nice alternative destination for a weekend vacation.
Nanjing is ranked as one of the six ancient metropolises of China, the 2000 year old city enjoying the reputation as the "capital of ten dynasties". Among all the dynasties that had their capital in Nanjing, the Ming left the city with the most cultural relics, including the Nanjing City Wall, Zhuyuanzhang's Mausoleum and the Drum Tower. The city was also the birth place of China's first democratic revolutionary, Dr.Sun Yat Sen (Sun zhongshan),and his Mausoleum is situated majestically upon the slopes of the nearby Purple Mountain. There are also many other cultural sites relating to him in Nanjing.
Thanks to its geographical location and political importance, Nanjing has a rich and varied history and is well known throughout China. Perhaps most importantly, the ancient city enjoys major religious significance for the Chinese. The Jiming Temple, and the Wuliangdian Hall, an arch-shaped brick hall in the Linggu Temple built without using an inch of wood or nail, are both good examples of the city's religious position.
Nanjing is a city with mountains, waters and green trees. With the Yangtze River running through the northeast of the city, mountains and hills encircling on three sides and rivers and lakes scattered about, Nanjing boasts beautiful natural scenery, as well as historically being a great defensive capital. The locals have learned to love this green and varied landscape, giving the area such pretty sights as the Plum Blossom Hill, Zixia Lake and Xuanwu Lake.
Confucius Temple
The Confucius Temple (Fuzimiao) was originally built during the Song Dynasty and is situated on the north bank of the Qinhuai River. Today, the entire area around the Temple consists of a series of tourist shops, snack bars, restaurants and entertainment arcades all done up in "Ming" and "Qing" style architecture.
There is a vaguely kitsch feeling about the area and the Temple itself is a bit of a disappointment but the area is great fun and a very pleasant part of the city to walk around (the only pedestrianised area in the city). Absorb the relaxed atmosphere, have something to eat and take part in the fun! It is particularly interesting in the evenings when a lively street market sets up in the district, and locals and tourists take part in the bargain hunting!
The Song Dynasty was a period of great Confucian revivalism and the temple here is considered to be one of the best preserved of its type in China. During the Ming Dynasty the temple was expanded and became a school for children of the imperial court. The buildings on both sides of the Temple which are now small tourist shops were once individual study rooms for Confucian scholars.
The Qinhuai River flows in front of the Temple and there is also a 110-meter-long screen stonewall (the largest in the nation) nearby, which can be viewed from the bridge crossing the river in front of the Temple. A beautiful ¡°Lantern Show¡± is held at the Temple during the 1st to the 18th days of the Lunar Year.
Drum Tower (Gulou)
Gulou (Drum Tower) is situated in the very center of Nanjing at the Gulou roundabout. The Tower was built in the 15th year of the reign of Hongwu during the Ming Dynasty (1382) and renovated during the Qing dynasty. The Drum Tower is a beautiful classical two story building set amidst a pretty and secluded garden. The scale of the building is very unusual in Chinese architecture and the views from the top of the tower afford a great panorama of this small city.
The Tower originally housed two large drums, 24 small drums and other musical instruments. Today there is only one large but impressive drum remaining on the top of the tower. The drums were used to announce the arrival of the emperor and his court to Nanjing and to warn city residents of danger. There is also a lovely little tea and snack house up here, which is usually blissfully quiet!
Jiming Temple
Jiming Temple, (Jiming si) situated in the east of the city, is an ancient city Buddhist temple with a long history.
During the Three Kingdoms Period, this site was an official garden belonging to the Wu State. A Temple was first built on the site in 527 during the Liang Dynasty. This original temple was destroyed and renovated many times until 1387, the 20th year of the Ming Emperor Hong Wu, when the present Jiming Temple was constructed.
Nearby this pretty little active temple, is a Rouge Well, so called because the Emperor's concubine used to clean the well with her handkerchief and leave the stain of her rouge behind. The Temple and the Rouge Well are nearby to Xuanwu Lake, in the northeast of the city.
Linggu Temple
The Linggu Temple, (Lingu si) the Linggu pagoda and the Beamless Hall are situated on the eastern side of Purple Mountain. This area can be reached by a shuttle bus from the Mausoleum but the nicest approach is to take one of the numerous paths into the woods that head east from the Mausoleum . Just follow the signs along the route and you will eventually arrive at the Linggu Park containing a few interesting buildings.
The Beamless Hall is where the bus stops. This is an unusual construction built using only five columns and no beams. The Hall was originally used to display Buddhist statues but today there is a much less interesting and slightly bizarre exhibition of mannequins reenacting Chinese history throughout the ages!
Directly North of the Hall is the pretty Linggu Pagoda which affords great views of the surrounding countryside and the city in the distance. The pagoda is sixty meters high and was built in the 1930s.
The Linggu Temple itself is a very active Buddhist Temple. Originally built in the Ming dynasty but recently restored, the Temple provides an insight into Chinese Buddhism and the everyday life of these monks. The Temple has a shrine containing the skull of the Chinese monk who went to India to collect the Buddhist scriptures.
Ming Tombs
The Ming Tombs (Ming Xiaoling) are situated on the southern slope of Purple Mountain. Work on the tombs began even before the Emperor, Hong Wu (founder of the Ming dynasty) died in 1398.
The tombs here are some of the largest Ming Tombs in China and the only Ming Tombs located outside Beijing. Hundreds of small stone statues still guard the Emperor's tomb today, although much of the original site has been destroyed.
The approach to the tomb is along Shixiang Lu, a pretty path littered with stone statues of real and mythical animals.
Sun Yatsen's Mauseleum
Dr. Sun Yatsen's Mausoleum is the most famous site located on Purple Mountain. Dr. Sun is arguably China's most famous revolutionary hero. Images of the first president of China and the founder of the Kuomintang party are everywhere in Nanjing. As relations with Taiwan become more tense, the fact that both sides still worship this man is perhaps an optimistic sign that some peaceful resolution can be reached.
Chinese tourists flock to this spectacular sight in hundreds, making their way up the fabulous marble staircase to pay their respects to the founder of modern China. The tomb itself is striking. The blue and white tiles in the Mausoleum symbolize the Kuomintang flag and the walls are decorated with the full text of "The Guidelines for Establishing a Nation" written by Dr. Sun. The tomb is covered by a sleeping statue of the revolutionary hero. There is also a huge tablet here inscribed with Dr. Sun's "Three Principles of the People" : Nationalism, Democracy and People's livelihood.
Xuanwu Lake
Xuanwu Lake lies outside the northeast city wall and is an enormous urban lake, dotted with causeways and islands. If you arrive in Nanjing at the railway station, the lake is directly in front of you. The lake was originally an imperial resort and then used to train naval soldiers during the Jin Dynasty.
Today, the Lake and the islands are a favorite weekend retreat for Chinese families. The island is accessible either by the causeways or by small boats. There are numerous tea houses and restaurants dotted about the lake. There is also a rather depressing zoo here which it is best to avoid. |